Runway Look: OAMC SS18
OAMC's designer, Luke Meier, will be very busy soon. He and his wife, Lucie, will be the co-designers at Jil Sander and if the latest OAMC collection is any indication, the new look at Sander will take on a fresh aesthetic. Back to this collection, which was inspired by Beatnik poet Allen Ginsberg. There were sophisticated and intellectual layers here, most were on the big, oversized spectrum, while Ginsberg's words echoed a sense of unity and community that has been a revolving theme during this SS18, a year after the surprise Brexit vote, the continued refugee crisis in Europe and the continued terror attacks in the continent and beyond. @oamc_official
Runway Look: Kenzo SS18
There have been many runway shows that utilize a cast that's all one minority (all-black, for example) but few shows ever cast all their models from Asian countries and even if it has, it felt disingenuous. That's where Kenzo, a Japanese label, started off and it should not be passed by in comment, the all Asian cast here is important and not just for show of diversity. A label, created and named after a Japanese designer, currently headed by two Asian designers cast only Asian models for their 80+ looks (there was womenswear, not shown here) for a collection was based on Asian culture. It was pretty brilliant and groundbreaking.
As for the clothes themselves, there were quirky triple ticket pocket suits, boxy and rooted in the 1980s, while anime-like graphics showed where Carol Lim and Humberto Leon's strengths lie: graphic sportswear. The finale offered fuzzy accented clothing, from socks to sweaters. @kenzo
Runway Look: Thom Browne SS18
Thom Browne's runway shows are spectacles. Often times the theatricality of his runway shows overshadow the collections themselves, as if the clothes are not why people fly to Paris twice a year for. Because of this, Browne's shows can be a huge hit or a huge misfire. His Spring/Summer 2018 runway show and collection were the former. There has been a lot of focus in fashion and in the media about androgyny and gender identity, all of which is great. Here, Browne dissects that identity question and posits it in terms of clothing. Women can generally wear anything a man can and barely anyone considers them less of a woman. It is even fetishized and made sexy, think of boyfriend jeans or oversized men's shirts worn as dresses. However, it is not the same for men. If a man wears a skirt, he must be Scottish otherwise he's demeaned and called names, as if his masculinity and the essence of what makes him a man is tied to the fact that he has pants on.
Browne's SS18 collection offers a rainbow of dressing options for men from skirt suits to a length shift dress to his signature shrunken suits, which women have been buying from the start of Browne's label. The sad part of this collection is the realization that many of beautiful garments won't be worn by men because of social stigma. @thombrowneny
Runway Look: Lanvin SS18
Times are chaotic and Lanvin's latest collection captures the mayhem that surrounds us everyday. Not only is human suffering on the increase from famines to civil wars causing mass exoduses to war and disease, our everyday lives are full of noise due to always being connected. For this SS18 collection, that was captured in the mismatched outfits that weren't worn properly, some buttons not lining up with the appropriate hole. The collection's color palette was also quite depressing, with washed out colors, usually in grays, browns and blues. @lanvinofficial
Runway Look: Y-3 SS18
Monochromatic looks were pervasive at Y-3, the collaborative label between Adidas and Yohji Yamamoto. The label was at the forefront of street and athletic-minded fashion and continues to be the quiet force that pushes it forward. The two entities, corporate Adidas and their economies of scale, and Yamamoto, a fashion force to be reckoned with, are a one-two punch that sets the trends. Here, there were basketball shorts, ultra wide and flaring out, lightweight and transparent hoodies and a plethora of covetable footwear. @adidasy3 @yohjiyamamotoofficial @adidasoriginals
Este fondo de guacamayas lo encontré en @la_restauradora en #Tenerife . 💚💛❤️
Si tienen oportunidad de pasarse este finde, aprovechen! Está en el casco histórico de la ciudad. No se van a arrepentir!
🏹 Flechado 💕💘💕
Ahora que ha comenzado a hacer fresquito ya puedo salir en modo Cupido y lanzar flechas por ahí con mis @amorsocks 👣💖
Así que cuidado, porque te puedes enamorar 👨❤️💋👨
Runway Look: Wooyoungmi SS18
Bruised and battered bad boys from the local private school wore the rebellious layers at the mother-daughter team behind Wooyoungmi designed for SS18. Aside from the makeup that conveyed the rough-edged bend of the boys, the clothes themselves were askew and rebellious, a quarter of a knit was mixing, revealing the oversized shirt underneath while boxy trousers were reminiscent of skater culture. In the end, the youthful collection hit all the trend notes for SS18: boxy, fluid layers with a strong dose of knits and outerwear. Heatwaves be damned! @wooyoungmiofficial
Runway Look: Alexander McQueen SS18
What season did Alexander McQueen's Sarah Burton design today, the last day of Paris Fashion Week? Technically, it is a Spring/Summer collection but with sheer amount of leather coats, puffers and knits would suggest otherwise. Nevertheless, the collection, the label's first show back in Paris in a long time, was a huge success. The beauty and technical expertise of the cuts and finishes on nearly everything was exemplary while the austere silhouette still conferred the sinister bend that the McQueen label has been known for. The finale, full of gorgeous coats, capped off a collection that was one of the best, if not the best, men's collection Burton has designed. Bravo! @alexandermcqueen
El encanto de la calle 🎨❤️🚶🏻😎🖤🏢
Nadie lo puede negar 🤷🏻♂️😌☝🏼. Aunque es cierto que no todo el tiempo es fácil encontrar el lugar ideal para lucir tus looks, si algo tiene #Madrid es que da para todos los gustos 😎✌🏼 ¿no creen?
🎨: @elreydelaruina ft. @lolofonico
👕: @lovelydisgraze @theclosetclubmadrid